I hopped on a plane after yet another week-long night shift combo. But this time, the messed-up melatonin schedule in my head would do me a favor by matching with my new time zone at the other side of the world.
After roughly 18h of travel, I landed in Bali.
Already my drive to the hotel was filled with new sights and sensations. At nighttime, the streets of Denpasar and Kuta seemed both dodgy and full of promise, but I would have to wait until the next day to fully discover its secrets.
I woke up next to N, a pediatric ICU nurse from Colorado, as the first person I officially met in Kuta. She was friendly, chatty, energetic. With 4 careers and multiple travel experiences on her back, she never ran out of interesting stories to tell.
We headed to Kuta beach that first morning in a van with no seatbelts —us two and almost all the boys. As usual, I skipped the surfing session and sat on the beach instead, taking in the waves, the people around me and the countless dogs playing in the sand through my camera lens. It was cloudy, but humid and hot. I shared my first conversation with Aj, shamefully realizing how little I knew about Bali and Indonesia in general, how much I would have to catch up on to feel ok with myself, and how useless my tiny Bali survivor guidebook would be for that.
Back at the hotel I met the rest of the crew, with an overall positive impression. US American, British, Turkish, French, Australian… They all had diverse and interesting occupations that I was instantly looking forward to finding out more about in the upcoming days. I made the accurate guess it would be more of an outgoing, engaging social experience than Canada had been. Little did I know to what extent I was right.
After a free day of adjusting, resting and exploring, we finally started our journey to Kubutambahan. All of us except Bl, who was admitted at the hospital and would regrettably be out of the picture for 4 days. On our way, we enjoyed a traditional Balinese play including our first exposure to Legong dance as well as lunch at a community project supporting and assisting people living with disabilities. Learning that in Hindu-Bali, it’s a societal belief that being born with a disability is a product of "bad karma" was upsetting, but seeing this kind of local initiative to change such outlook did feel rewarding.
Finally, we arrived at Bulian. Our accommodation there was surreal. It felt more like an Indiana Jones movie than real life. Located in the middle of the tropical jungle, we slept in wooden cabins surrounded by the intense sound of millions of insects, geckos and all kinds of birds. The inebriating scent of exotic Frangipani flowers mixed with the omnipresent incense of balinese offerings, the sultry weather, the coconut milk, the artisanal canang saris, the spiritual cleansing ceremony, our walk to the local temple, the sunset in between ancient ruins and run-down streets. That one afternoon felt like a warm embrace to my soul. We enjoyed more mesmerizing traditional Legong in the evening… Followed by my first real conversation with B. It was strangely difficult to look directly into his blue eyes. Over time, I had the feeling I’d stumbled across a goldmine of some kind, but my tiredness got the best out of me, and I called it an early night.
We got ourselves immersed in Balinese culture further the next day, exploring more temples and secluded beaches, visiting a dragon fruit farm, a sacred well and swimming in natural hot springs. Interestingly enough, that was the first time I’ve ever truly felt like an intruder, or unconsciously disrespectful outsider. Wearing a bikini to the contrast of local women covered up completely made me feel extremely self-conscious in a way I’d never known before. Luckily, S offered me his tank top, which I took gladly. After a traditional lunch at yet another astonishing location, we made it back to base camp with enough time to take a nap just before our traditional cooking class.
And what a blast that was. The euphoria of all these previous experiences enhanced by S’s relentlessly witty innuendos made me laugh to the point of abdominal soreness. That was the evening I first felt truly close to my group in a more visceral way, also helped by the late night long session of live music and karaoke we shared lying down on colorful giant bean bags.
We visited Gitgit Waterfall on our way to Ubud. I thoroughly enjoyed the short hike through the forest, coming across the most humongous duran fruit I’ll ever see, an isolated coffee shop with a Spanish machine and refreshing mocha. Then after yet another delicious lunch, came gorgeous Ulun Danu Bratan. Exploring its gardens, the views to Bratan lake, felt otherworldly. My attention wasn’t undivided, largely drawn to the amount of banter and laughter shared with the group.
I had never witnessed traffic as frantic and reckless as Ubud’s. After the Monkey Forest, dinner at a pizza place felt strangely European, if it wasn’t for the palm trees framing the views out of every window as well as the loud bustle of the local traffic in the background.
And then, one of the absolute highlights of my time in Bali. S, M, N and I hopped in a car at 2:00 am. That was the only time I ever saw the streets of Ubud completely empty. We drove for around an hour to our destination: the base of active vulcano Mt Batur. We hiked under an awe-inducing starry sky in pitch darkness for two hours, fighting against steep cliffs of slippery gravel until, at around 5 am, we finally made it to the top. Barely minutes after settling, the first lines of orange slowly appeared in front of us. A choir of gasps and cheers exploded around us as the light progressively spread across the horizon revealing what we had been unknowingly facing all along: the majestic peak of neighbouring Mt Abang hovering above the clouds. It was magical.
Getting back at barely 9am after what already felt like a whole day worth of adventures was invigorating. After a well-deserved breakfast, B and I headed to a nearby bookstore so I could put my hands on anything that’d enrich my knowledge of everything Bali. Our quiet conversation in between bookshelves unexpectedly turned into one of my fondest memories of those days. With me still barely able to hold his gaze for longer than two seconds but without the need to do so, as the books all around us served as the perfect excuse for my eyes to focus on without added awkwardness.
“Of all these, which are your favorite genres?”
“I would say, probably fiction and non-fiction”
“Well, that narrows it down”
For someone as introverted and quiet, he knew how to extract the most heart-felt laughter out of me.
The rest of the day I spent getting a Balinese back massage (ouch), reading my new book and indulging in creative endeavors turning one of S’s hilarious comments into an actual illustration. Bl finally joined us again that evening, and I made sure he didn’t feel left out by writing him a funny welcome card we would all sign for him. But talking about his stay at the hospital, his symptoms and treatment during dinner brought more negative karma upon the already sick male collective. B, sitting on my right side, was growing increasingly pale. The way he looked while mentioning his lightheadedness reminded me of every young male patient I’ve had faint in front of me at the sight of a needle. And sure enough, shortly after partially unbuttoning his shirt, drenched in sweat, he collapsed on my shoulder. That unleashed an internal battle for me. Fueled by the knowledge of the trivial nature of a common vasovagal syncope, to my own embarrassment, a tiny part of me allowed herself to take in the feeling of his muslcly shoulders and wide neck under my arm and the such. But I forced myself to snap out of it into a more professional mindset ASAP. When I thought the evening couldn’t get any weirder, I spent part of it sitting next to my new patient in his bedroom, trying to talk him out of googling his symptoms, followed by my first ever critique at being thoughtful, spoken by his roommate upon walking in on us:
“By the way, that card you made for Bl was just weird”.
Ironically, as one of the few to not get sick at all, I went to bed that night with a spinning head and enough contradictory feelings to burst one’s cranium open like a Balinese coconut.